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新摄影论坛 > 器材讨论区 > 佳能单反镜头 > [讨论]有个想法:是否应该全部上定焦?  
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本主题由 Nice 于 2008-01-20 18:11 加入推荐
2008-01-12 21:52  #76
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松奇

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够有钱的话当然全部红圈定焦
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2008-01-16 04:24  #77
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ysman

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24-70L 70-200L都是经典的好头. 我同意楼上的意见。 我的想法,保留这两只变焦镜, 再加1-2只定焦镜。如何?
我也是这样,我正在想再买一只85mm, f1.2L II.


[ 此帖由 ysman 最后编辑于: 2008-01-16 09:47 ]
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2008-01-20 13:15  #78
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viewer

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先把24-70换了试试看
建议楼主先把24-70换成35L用一段时间再说,不习惯的,再改回变焦不晚,用喜欢了,24L,14L就还可继续。
70-200L IS就留下,没必要折腾什么85,1.8,135L和200L了。
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2008-01-30 03:05  #79
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明海谢

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各有各的好!
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2008-01-30 13:04  #80
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八鱼

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定焦当然强过变焦,指的是色彩的过度和层次上,比变焦要来的细腻,通过仔细比较二者的照片就能得到结论。
但同时也要看怎么拍,在光线良好的情况下,这个差别是肉眼难以区分的。

假如LZ有XBIS,还是保留的好,毕竟可以覆盖到200MM焦段,非常有用。假如看上135了,就捧回来供着,这绝对是个传奇镜头,起码在视角上就比85之流要爽多了(个人感觉)。

200以上的定焦,强烈建议 300MM F4 IS ,此头用好了完全没必要去考虑328了。

至于300MM以上,456吧,再以上呢,就不好说了。。。。一般人不去玩那个的。。
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2008-01-30 13:16  #81
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追风寻影

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经济允许滴话,当然全部定焦
并且做到每隔18个月换一部机器


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2008-01-30 13:58  #82
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liulang0532

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楼主这些都是顶级佳能L头了,不要出了。非要上,不如上转接环,玩徕卡,蔡司,那绝对是另一种味道风格。你这些头,换了那些定焦,拍出来结果,无非在放到最大有点区别,你又不是搞评测,没那个必要。
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2008-01-30 14:45  #83
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叻仔

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支持你这样敬业


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2008-01-31 00:57  #84
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米高炯

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建议LZ,,出ISXB,留24-70
上 85 F1.8 135L 100-400DB


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2008-01-31 15:45  #85
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Nice

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今天DPREVIEW上有个类似贴: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1029&thread=26532891

其中有不少很有意思的发言,我摘录几段供大家参考....

#1

Some people seem to advocate primes simply because they seem to imply that "better" photographers work "better" with primes. In fact, all my lenses are primes, and one of the big plusses of using a prime is that I don't have to think as much as when using a zoom. When using a prime, I need only consider framing, and DOF. When using a zoom, I need to also consider persepctive. Of course, I do have to consider perspective when choosing which prime to use, but I need only consider that one time, whereas when using a zoom I am inclined to think about it with every shot.

Some may argue that not having to think about perspective frees the mind to consider framing more carefully. I have to agree with this, at least for me. Others with more powerful brains may be able to consider both equally and simultaneously and put zooms to better use than I can.

However, while zooms allow more perspective control than primes, some primes allow more DOF control than zooms. Of course, as I'm normally shooting wide open because I love shallow DOF, in practice, I don't consider DOF directly -- I merely consider how to frame the shot to make the ultra shallow DOF effective.

Fast primes can also be used at a lower f-ratio and ISO to capture a scene with less noise, but at the expense of a more shallow DOF. If a more shallow DOF is preferable, bonus, if not, at least you have the option. In addition, many fast primes are smaller and lighter than the zooms in their range: the 24 / 1.4L, 35 / 1.4L, 50 / 1.2L, and 85 / 1.8 are all smaller and lighter than the 24-70 / 2.8L, and the 85 / 1.2L, 100 / 2, 135 / 2L, and 200 / 2.8L are all smaller and lighter than the 70-200 / 2.8L. Now, when we enter the realm of f/4 zooms, the primes are still smaller, but not lighter.

Anyway, I would not choose a prime over a zoom for reasons of IQ. The difference in IQ between modern zooms and modern primes at overlapping f-ratios (well, at least one stop down on the zoom) are largely insignificant.

Choose between primes and zooms on the basis of perspective/DOF control, size, and weight.

#2

I believe it’s a matter of personal choice and photographic philosophy. All photo gear should be seen as tools. If a prime is better to get the job done (shooting indoors without a flash) then fine. If the versatility of a zoom is better for traveling light and having a larger focal range at your disposal, then also fine.

The description “better”, I find hard to like. Ten photographers will define a “good” lens differently just as those ten will make different choices when describing which lens out of a selection is “best”. A friend of mine is a professional photographer. She learned the trait during a three-year apprenticeship and has now worked some two years for a German sports magazine. She still uses the kit lens with great success! Who is willing to rate that lens a “pro lens”? If I started a thread describing the kit lens or the 300D body as high quality professional hardware, I’d be swamped with replies suggesting I visit a shrink.

In “the past” (early 70s), when zooms first became available, their image quality was not accepted by professionals. And many, if not most, pros and experiences photographers lead a crusade against anything not prime, not 50mm as a “standard lens”. In short, anything unorthodox. Since then we’ve come a long way. We shoot color most of the time and b&w is for a minority. The majority of folks prefer to carry one zoom (or two at the max.) instead of four or more primes when vacationing. Many folks shoot indoors without flash – only the realm of specialists with expensive gear in the past.

In short, our gear has changed, the manner in which we shoot pictures has changed and photography has truly become a very affordable hobby. I’m suggesting that, though the laws of physics still hold true, we photographers should embrace change and adapt our technique accordingly. That also goes for primes versus zooms or what the “first lens” should be. Though I often find it difficult to follow our rapidly changing photographic world (and I do miss aperture rings and proper manual focus) myself, I’ve become accustomed to using zooms a great deal. And I feel that a beginner is not worse off by choosing a zoom kit lens to learn the ins and outs of his/her new hobby.

What’s more important is, that a person understand their gear and use it within its limits. A talented photographer will search for new and different approaches to the hobby by himself/herself. A lazy person will sit on a bench and shoot snapshots of a subject regardless of the lens fastened to the body. He/she will simply crop or adjust the image on the PC. Is that a “good” shot? Well, there are many shots which have won prizes where I would have immediately deleted the image or wonder why the photographer needed such expensive gear to take such a horrible shot! That brings me back to the beginning – whatever the photographer is pleased with, is “best” or “good” for him or her.

--
#3
If I had an unlimited budget, perhaps I would mostly dapple in zooms, but I don't. I also have bought a Canon printer that will blow up images to 13 by 19. Do you know how many images I have blown up to that size? Zero, nadda, zip. Why: I'm not happy with the quality of any shots I have taken so far.

Now I don't blame the lens for everything, most of my great images which have not been so great due to technical problems like noise, not holding up to cropping, etc are results of my lack of experience. But I am conscious of wanting some quality images so that I can do a little cropping and not loose to much quality in the photo.

I divide my gear into two parts, and I mean this in relation to my DSLR: 1) the times when I used it as a point and shoot 2) when I am trying to create the best image I can.

Point and shoot shots are when I use my middling zooms in terms of quality, you know the Canon 28 - 135, etc. I use this to record events, friends and travel. But my other gear is for serious amateur work. So for example, I am using a Tamron 200 - 400 zoom which is soft at the 400 end. I'm not worried about speed of the lens, but I do want quality images. So I am seriously thinking of purchasing the "forgotten" Canon 400 f5.6 - no IS. This lens isn't fast, but it is excellent. I have found as most do that with longer zooms, most of the shots are taken at the longest focal length. So when I am shooting water fowl, I will have a quality lens I can depend on and know when I have a soft image, its something I've done wrong, not the camera, nor the lens (no I won't blame it on a "bad copy."

Now if you look at all the Canon 400's, you'll see there's a bit of choice all much more expensive than my wished for lens above. But the Canon 400 f5.6 will deliver the goods in terms of IQ.

I just purchased the old version of the Canon cheapy 50 f1.8. I bought the Canon f1.8 Mk l lens. I was using it just two nights ago and shot indoors without a flash in a well lit room. The images were great, and I know I wouldn't have captured them with my 28 - 135 lens, as the f stop is to slow for what I was doing. Speed is important with primes, but the bulk of shots taken by 'fast" lenses are usually one or two stops less than wide open.

Quality is what is important in a lens, then price, and lastly speed.


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2008-02-01 03:16  #86
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了了无痕

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买什么头?出什么头?关键在于你到底想拍什么?选择什么样的设备决定了你一段时间内的拍摄取向。

摄影本身的类别太多,风景、人像、纪实、微距、野生动态、商业等等,每个类别对器材的要求都不尽相同。从心态上讲,每个色友都希望拥有所有优秀的器材,但这显然是不太现实与盲目的。

我个人认为要把摄影玩出意义、玩出味道,是件相当不简单的事情。每个人都想成大师,可我们要清楚看到的一点是:真正的大师绝大多数几乎都是专精一样。当然,现今数码时代(海量图片与草根化)的出现从某种意义上讲颠覆了术业有专攻的传统格局,但我想,即便如此,我们也不能成天见什么拍什么就能让自己变得很出色吧?最起码也应该有个对摄影的基本切入点和拍摄取向吧?

以我自己来讲吧,我想从风景摄影作为现在的切入点,用两至三年的时间多拍、多走、多看、多听,做到暴光正确、图象清晰、色调真实。为满足这个要求我现在主要上广变、广定、移轴加中长变,机身上两台全副,目前已经有16-35L、TS-24L、IS小白、5D和大马三,接下来会进14L和35L,这是我认为必须的(以广角为主)。前段时间还惦记着打鸟,老想上428或640(N版的帖子看多了,中鸟毒了),可现在解毒了,原因就是我明白自己要做什么了,并且知道只有把全部精力投入才可能做好这件事情。心无旁念,因此那几个人像毒头50L、85L、135L、200L现在根本毒不倒我,两三年内如果自认为风景拍得不错了,也许我会开始介入人像或者专门打鸟,谁知道呢?

专心致志地把握自己的拍摄取向,用好手头的设备,多拍片,多出片,这是正道。
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2008-02-01 04:43  #87
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巴巴布莱特

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楼主的装备很好。

小弟的看法,用单反来拍照,唯一的原因是:对自己想表现的对象,DC已经无法表现。那么问题就很清楚了,选什么镜头最后只能归结于你想表现什么对象。

NICE版主贴的那篇文章挺有道理的,我用变焦时一般只用一个焦距,而且回头看看,一个变焦头所拍出的照片,我认为能够保留的,绝大部分也是一个焦距所拍出来的。原因就是那篇文章里讲的,用定焦的优势在于熟悉某个特定焦距所产生的透视和表现力。


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2008-02-01 17:18  #88
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Nice

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引用:
最初由 了了无痕 发表
买什么头?出什么头?关键在于你到底想拍什么?选择什么样的设备决定了你一段时间内的拍摄取向。

摄影本身的类别太多,风景、人像、纪实、微距、野生动态、商业等等,每个类别对器材的要求都不尽相同。从心态上讲,每个色友都希望拥有所有优秀的器材,但这显然是不太现实与盲目的。

我个人认为要把摄影玩出意义、玩出味道,是件相当不简单的事情。每个人都想成大师,可我们要清楚看到的一点是:真正的大师绝大多数几乎都是专精一样。当然,现今数码时代(海量图片与草根化)的出现从某种意义上讲颠覆了术业有专攻的传统格局,但我想,即便如此,我们也不能成天见什么拍什么就能让自己变得很出色吧?最起码也应该有个对摄影的基本切入点和拍摄取向吧?

以我自己来讲吧,我想从风景摄影作为现在的切入点,用两至三年的时间多拍、多走、多看、多听,做到暴光正确、图象清晰、色调真实。为满足这个要求我现在主要上广变、广定、移轴加中长变,机身上两台全副,目前已经有16-35L、TS-24L、IS小白、5D和大马三,接下来会进14L和35L,这是我认为必须的(以广角为主)。前段时间还惦记着打鸟,老想上428或640(N版的帖子看多了,中鸟毒了),可现在解毒了,原因就是我明白自己要做什么了,并且知道只有把全部精力投入才可能做好这件事情。心无旁念,因此那几个人像毒头50L、85L、135L、200L现在根本毒不倒我,两三年内如果自认为风景拍得不错了,也许我会开始介入人像或者专门打鸟,谁知道呢?

专心致志地把握自己的拍摄取向,用好手头的设备,多拍片,多出片,这是正道。


讲得好...
了解不一定亲自实践
摄影的范围很广,但不一定什么都要准备家当, 金钱不是问题,时间也会成问题...


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2008-02-02 13:33  #89
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军营

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最初由 liulang0532 发表
楼主这些都是顶级佳能L头了,不要出了。非要上,不如上转接环,玩徕卡,蔡司,那绝对是另一种味道风格。你这些头,换了那些定焦,拍出来结果,无非在放到最大有点区别,你又不是搞评测,没那个必要。


正解!完全同意

玩完了转接,R
在玩M,真正的旁轴,莱卡,就135 到头了,


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2008-02-02 13:56  #90
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瘦点的好

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引用:
最初由 了了无痕 发表
买什么头?出什么头?关键在于你到底想拍什么?选择什么样的设备决定了你一段时间内的拍摄取向。

摄影本身的类别太多,风景、人像、纪实、微距、野生动态、商业等等,每个类别对器材的要求都不尽相同。从心态上讲,每个色友都希望拥有所有优秀的器材,但这显然是不太现实与盲目的。

我个人认为要把摄影玩出意义、玩出味道,是件相当不简单的事情。每个人都想成大师,可我们要清楚看到的一点是:真正的大师绝大多数几乎都是专精一样。当然,现今数码时代(海量图片与草根化)的出现从某种意义上讲颠覆了术业有专攻的传统格局,但我想,即便如此,我们也不能成天见什么拍什么就能让自己变得很出色吧?最起码也应该有个对摄影的基本切入点和拍摄取向吧?

以我自己来讲吧,我想从风景摄影作为现在的切入点,用两至三年的时间多拍、多走、多看、多听,做到暴光正确、图象清晰、色调真实。为满足这个要求我现在主要上广变、广定、移轴加中长变,机身上两台全副,目前已经有16-35L、TS-24L、IS小白、5D和大马三,接下来会进14L和35L,这是我认为必须的(以广角为主)。前段时间还惦记着打鸟,老想上428或640(N版的帖子看多了,中鸟毒了),可现在解毒了,原因就是我明白自己要做什么了,并且知道只有把全部精力投入才可能做好这件事情。心无旁念,因此那几个人像毒头50L、85L、135L、200L现在根本毒不倒我,两三年内如果自认为风景拍得不错了,也许我会开始介入人像或者专门打鸟,谁知道呢?

专心致志地把握自己的拍摄取向,用好手头的设备,多拍片,多出片,这是正道。
堡垒一个一个的攻,饭一口一口的吃,口水要少些再少些,上片要多些再多些。


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